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The Art of Lockpicking ====================== An Introduction --------------- Issue 1.0 Introduction ------------ Well, as they say, starting off is the hardest part. This applies to many things as well as the topic we are about to discuss this evening, or whenever the hell you are reading this. When I first got interested in lockpicking, it was difficult for me to find any sort of phile that explained ANYTHING at all about it. I saw a few here and there and decided that if I could compile a large phile made of many smaller philes and several peoples assorted research, (including my own) I could get one hell of an interesting little do-dad for all those aspiring little thieves out there. So here it is! But, enough of this Bull-shit.....let's get to it..... A NOTE TO ALL FEDS, PIGS, AND OTHER ANIMALISTIC BEINGS: ------------------------------------------------------ -=>---------------------------------------------------------------------<=- -=> !!!!!PLACE STUPID AND RETARDED DISCLAIMER HERE!!!!! <=- -=> <=- -=> This phile is intended for (as usual) information purposes ONLY!!! <=- -=> So if any info in this phile is used for illegal activity, it <=- -=> ain't my fault or anyone else's except the particular individual. <=- -=> After all, we didn't FORCE him to read this or pick any locks. <=- -=> <=- -=>---------------------------------------------------------------------<=- Basic Picking -------------- In the following, you will see the instruments used for picking in TEXT form about as good as they can get. Some things you will need to know just to start picking: 1) MANUAL DEXTERITY - If you have no self control, then don't even think of picking locks. 2) KNOW HOW LOCK WORKS - This is very easy. It works sorta like an engine, with the tumblers acting like the pistons. (They move up and down) 3) CORRECT TOOLS - You can either make them or buy them. Buying is much better. (A place to purchase lockpicks from through mail order is listed at the end of this article.) 4) !!PRACTICE!! - You will never be any good at lockpicking if you don't. It is possible to pick a 5 tumbler (easy-medium lock) in under 1 minute, but that ain't gonna happen if ya don't practice. Not to mention, if ya don't practice, and fuck up when your trying to break into something, that extra time you take due to inexperiance could cost ya some freedom on this great planet of ours. Get the point?????? The Entry Lock -------------- An entry lock is a front door lock, or some sort of lock that protects what's on the other side. These are usually 5 tumbler locks, and can be picked with some sort of ease. Go to your local K-Mart and get an El-Chepo entry lock and give yourself a blue dot special discount. (Either 5-finger or price reduction.) (THIS MEANS STEAL IT DUMMY!!) Once you have this, then take the fucker apart. This may/is easier said then done. All you will need when you are down is the part that the key goes into. After getting that and looking it over, you will find a cap type thing on the top of the lock. VERY CAREFULLY TAKE THAT OFF!!! If you slip and open it too fast, the springs will go flying into a void and never be found again. The figure for the lock is figure 4. Once the cover is off, dump 4 of the spring and tumblers into a holeless baggie (Ziplock preferred). Stick the cap back on and you are ready to use the 1 tumbler lock. This is very easy to pick, that is why you are starting with it. Pickings -------- Now you are ready to pick, but what? NO PICKS? Looks like you are screwed unless you get some quick. If you are going to make them, then get some blue spring steel and a grinder. The final product mustbe about .025x .125 flat. If you already have your picks, then read on! Take your one (1) tumbler lock and the feeler pick (fig. 1), and your tension wrench (fig. 3). Hold the lock in your other habd (ie. if you are righty then hold it in your left, and vice versa) adn stick the tension wrench into the bottom part, so that it doesn't obstruct the feeler pick as it moves in and out. Now turn the tension wrench downward (or whatever way will open your lock but usually clockwise) and insert your feeler pick. You shoudn't have to stick it in far because you are only using 1 tumbler, adn can probably see it where you are looking. Now gently push up on the tumbler, and the lock should open. If this fails to happen, then let loose on the wrench and try again. If you still can't do this, then give up, YOU ARE A LOSER IN LIFE!!! If you did open your lock, then CONGRATS!!! After you have picked your lock, then try it again and again and again so that you get the feel of how much pressure to put on the wrench and the tumbler. When you think you hve an idea of what you are doing, open up the cap (CAREFULLY!) and stick in another tumbler (both of them) adn the spring. You should now have two tumblers installed. Now try to pick this one. Should be a little harder, but no huge difference. If it doesn't happen all at once, then try again. If you still can't do it, then this time you are NOT a loser in life, just someone who WILL have no future. Once you are done with your 2 tumbler lock, then stick in three, then 4 and then 5 tumblers. The more there are, the harder the lock will be to pick. In one day, I got up to 4 tumblers, 5 is tricky. For less tumblered locks, a raking pick is good to use (fig. 5). The biggest thing in in lockpicking is just getting enouf practice. Once you think you have 5 tumblers, try oyu garage door lock (locked, duh!) and see if oyu can get in. Don't worry, there will be no marks on the lock itself so MOMMY or DADDY won't shit all over you for messing with the locks. FIGS. 1-5: 1) The Feeler Pick in TEXT ________________________ \ `---------------^, \______________________,----------------' The end part there goes up smoothly to a rounded end of some chicks tits. 2) What The Tumblers Look Like And The Spring In the locks, the tumblers are different sizes (the ridges in the key should have told you that) so that is would be stupid to try and show all of the different lengths. The spring in half the size of a pen spring. (no figure) 3) The Tension Wrench ___________________________: : : The wrench should be somewhat thicker so that it doesn't bend on your ass. 4) The Basic Tumbler Lock: CAP---, \:/ _____-------------------__ : IoI IoI IoI IoI IoI : : IiI IiI IiI IiI IiI : ========================= : --------------------------- o = The smaller of the two tumblers. i = The larger of the two tumblers. = = The passage way of the key. (KeyWay) 5) The Rack Pick (very rough) ______________________ ,- ,- ,- ,- \ `----------------- ` ` ` : \____________________;---------------------------' This pick is just a varation of the feeler pick, 'cept that it has ridges that move the tumblers up and down fast. Well, that's about it. Happy Picking. THE LOGIC GATE Help Phile 2 - 908-874-4101 - HST - 160 Megs File Originated from MIXTURES FOR DESTRUCTION WWIVnet SUB number 9811 Written by Chuck. Combination Locks ================= Introduction ------------ As you know, many people use combination locks to protect their property and personal possesions. With most, there is no keyhole, barring the ones used on regular lockers in the hall way of schools. The following will try to help you "PICK" some of the most populare combination locks used today. [<%: THE DARK FOREST [312] 232:8804 :%>] {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=- -=} {=- -=} {=- -=} Picking Combination Locks {=- -=} {=- -=} {=- -=} A Metal Communications Presentation {=- -=} {=- -=} {=- -=} Written by: The Byte Byter {=- -=} {=- -=} {=- -=} The writer of this text file takes <all> responsibility for what {=- -=} {=- -=} this text file is used for. Hopefully it will only be used for {=- -=} {=- -=} illegal purposes cuz i can't think of a reason it can be used for {=- -=} {=- -=} legally. Well, on with the text file. {=- -=} {=- {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=- -=} {=- -=} Call: /\/\etalland 1 10megs AE/BBS/Cat-Fur Line! [503]538-0761 {=- -=} {=- {=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=--=}{=- Ok, so ya say ya wanna learn how to pick combination locks...This text file SHOULD help you. As a matter of fact, if ya do it right, it WILL help you. First of all, let me tell you about the set-up of a lock. When the lock is locked, there is a curved piece of metal wedged inside the little notch on the horseshoe shaped bar that is pushed in to the lock when you lock it. To free this wedge, you must(must is a word used to much) you usually(that sounds much better) have to turn the lock to the desired combination and the pressure on the wedge is released therefore letting the lock open. I will now tell you how to make a pick so you can open a lock without having to waste all that time turning the combination (this also helps when ya don't know the combination to begin with). First of all, ya need to find a hairpin. What's a hairpin? Well, just ask your mom. She will have one. If she asks what its for, say ya gotta hold something together... If she says use a rubberband or use a paperclip, tell her to fuck off and die and then go to the store and rip off a box of 50 or so. Ok, enough stalling (yea, i was stalling). Once you have your hair pin (make sure its metal), take the ridged side and break it off right before it starts to make a U-turn onto the straight side. The curved part can now be used as a handle. Now, using a file, file down the other end until it is fairly thin. You should do this to many hairpins and file them so they are of different thicknesses so you can pick various locks. Some locks are so cheap that ya don't even have ta file! But most are not. Ok, now you have a lock pick. Now if ya haven't figured it out, here's how ya use it. You look at a lock to see which side the lock opens from. If you can't tell, you will just have to try both sides. When ya find out what side it opens from, take the lock pick and stick the filed end into the inside of the horseshoe-shaped bar on whichever side the lock opens from. Now, put pressure on the handle of the lock pick (pushing down, into the crack) and pull the lock up and down. The lock will then open because the pick separated the wedge and the notch allowing us thieves to open it. Don't say bullshit until you've tried it. Because I have gotten lots of beer money from doin' this to fellow students' gym lockers. Also, this technique works best on American locks. I have never picked a Master lock before because of the shape a pressure of the wedge but if anyone does it, let me know how long it took. Also, the Master lock casing is very tight so ya can't get the pick in. So, if you're locking something valuable up, use a Master, cuz at least ya know I won't be picking it and I'm sure there aren't that many that could. And when I say pick, i don't mean lighting a stick of dynamite next to the lock, picking is opening a lock without using force, making a substitute key, etc... If any of you believe that this information is not sufficient for picking an American lock, or any other kind besides Master, leave me a message at: /\/\etallant 1 (503) 538-0761. This concludes my text file on picking combination locks. My next text file will probably be "Picking key locks". See ya later. The Byte Byter ^^^ ^^^^ ^^^^^ +==========================================+ + BE A LOCKPICK, GET INTO PADLOCKS + + "HOW TO CRACK A PADLOCK" + +==========================================+ I must attribute this message/file to reading I have done from another files about this, and some methods that I have made up on my own. This method has been only assured with "Master" padlocks. They are a very common padlock.. This might only work on those, but who knows.. First, pull the lock down, not so much as that it is impossible to turn, but just enough to be able to do the following: Turn the knob around clockwise (to the right) until you feel a small, small resistance which will last 2-3 numbers on the dial long. You might try doing this a few times to find the exact number that it does this on, and not to be mistaken with another. Now, add 5 to the number you have gotten. Guess what? You have the first number in the combonation! There are a few mehods to get the next number. I will tell you both, one method, is very quick, but not always 100% reliable. The other is very difficult. QUICK METHOD: This method will get the last two numbers in the combination in one step. --First, turn right and stop on the first number you got. Then, turn left and stop on the first number again. Continue turning to the left to the next marked number. This means that the dial goes by five, and if your first number is 18, go to the 20.. Then turn to the dial to the right again, while pulling down on the lock (as hard as you pull to unlock it if you have the right combo), and keep turning to the right until you get to the 2nd number you've tried. If it doesn't unlock, go on to the next marked number on the dial. (For instance, you're first number is 18, you tried 20 past right, it doesn't work, then try 25.) Keep doing this until eventually you unlock it, or it doesn't work. The most times that you would have to do this is about 8. HARD, BUT NEVER FAILS METHOD: As in above, turn right to your first number, and then turn left until you get your first number again. Begin pulling down on the lock again, and trying to feel for a little resistance. If it is very stiff, you probably have the second number. If it is weak, then continue turning. You should try 2 or 3 times to make sure you get the same results. After you think you've got the second number, turn back to the right, while pulling down on the lock between tries of oh, say every 3 numbers, and eventually, CLICK, it will open. //=DISCLAIMER: I am not held responsible for the use of this information. This is for, let's say, basic knowledge... Let's say, if you ever forget your combonation, or it is very important you get into another lock. This file/message has been brought to you by MASTER MICRO! Miscellaneous Locks =================== Introduction ------------ Some of you who are a bit more experiance in BBsing and the type of stuff that go along with it (ie, phreaking/hacking), may have wondered what a phellow such as Agent Bioc 003 has to do with a phile about locks. Very little actually, but when I was reading over his manuals again, I though it would be a good idea to include that little segment concerning phone locks in this tutorial. While they may not be used much anymore, it is not hard to remember how to get around one of these locks, if such a time arises. See here..... |--------------------------| | Infinity's Edge | | | | PRESENTS | | | | Agent Bioc 003 | |--------------------------------------| DIAL LOCKS HAVE YOU EVER BEEN IN AN OFFICE OR SOMEWHERE AND WANTED TO MAKE A FREE FONE CALL BUT SOME ASSHOLE PUT A LOCK ON THE FONE TO PREVENT OUT-GOING CALLS? FRET NO MORE PHELLOW PHREAKS, FOR EVERY SYSTEM CAN BE BEATEN WITH A LITTLE KNOWLEDGE! THERE ARE TWO WAYS TO BEAT THIS OBSTACLE, FIRST PICK THE LOCK, I DON'T HAVE THE TIME TO TEACH LOCKSMITHING SO WE GO TO THE SECOND METHOD WHICH TAKES ADVANTAGE OF TELEPHONE ELECTRONICS. TO BE AS SIMPLE AS POSSIBLE, WHEN YOU PICK UP THE FONE YOU COMPLETE A CIRCUIT KNOW AS A LOCAL LOOP. WHEN YOU HANG-UP YOU BREAK THE CIRCUIT. WHEN YOU DIAL (PULSE) IT ALSO BREAKS THE CIRCUT BUT NOT LONG ENOUGH TO HANG UP! SO YOU CAN "PUSH-DIAL." TO DO THIS YOU >RAPIDLY< DEPRESS THE SWITCHHOOK. FOR EXAMPLE, TO DIAL AN OPERATOR (AND THEN GIVE HER THE NUMBER YOU WANT CALLED) >RAPIDLY< & >EVENLY< DEPRESS THE SWITCHHOOK 10 TIMES. TO DIAL 634-1268, DEPRESS 6 X'S PAUSE, THEN 3 X'S, PAUSE, THEN 4 X'S, ETC. IT TAKES A LITTLE PRACTICE BUT YOU'LL GET THE HANG OF IT. TRY PRACTICING WITH YOUR OWN # SO YOU'LL GET A BUSY TONE WHEN RIGHT. IT'LL ALSO WORK ON TOUCH-TONE(TM) SINCE A DTMF LINE WILL ALSO ACCEPT PULSE. ALSO, NEVER DEPRESS THE SWITCHHOOK FOR MORE THAN) A SECOND OR IT'LL HANG-UP! FINALLY, REMEMBER THAT YOU HAVE JUST AS MUCH RIGHT TO THAT FONE AS THE ASSHOLE WHO PUT THE LOCK ON IT! NOTE: Obviously, you needed a tiny bit of phreaking knowledge, but if it doesn't work the first time, try a couple more times. If it still doesn't work, I've got some swamp land I'd like to sell ya! (DUH!) The Safety Chain Lock --------------------- A commonly used lock is the safety chain. Y'know, the one that you slide into the little slot along the back of your door. Well I, as well as other people have come to the conclusion that this type of lock protects you and your valuables from intruders/burglers about as much as tin foil does! While the simple method of breaking through such a pitiful barrier is to take your shoulder AND SMASH INTO THE DOOR AS HARD AS YOU CAN works well, so do bolt cutters. I will try to explain to you how to get past one of these locks quietly. After all, isn't the whole idea of lockpicking to be as quiet as is humanly possible? First, you will need about 4 tacks, some elastic bands, and some common sense. To defeat a safety chain lock where the door is unlocked but the chain prevents you from stealing some valuables, simply take an rubber band and somehow tie or stretch one end of the band over the knob end of the safety chain. By knob end I mean the end you would take (if you were on the other side of the door) and slide into the slot on the back of the door. Next, take the other end of the rubber band and a thumb tack and, reaching around the back or the door as far as you can, stick the thumb tack into the back of the door as hard as you can with the rubber band rapped around or somehow affixed to the tack. Then slowly close the door. The rubber band on the back will pull the chain out of the slot for you. You can then open the door, remove the tack, and steal stuff. (Fig. 1) FIG-1 ----- What the setup will look like for inside: ---------------------------------------- -------------------------- ----------------------------- - - - - ============ - - ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - - {{{{ ~+ = ()~oooooooooooooooooooo { ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ - - {{{{ ============ - - - - (DOOR) - - (WALL) - - -------------------------- ----------------------------- LEGEND ------ " - " Border of wall/door " ~ " Elastic Band " o " Link of Safey Lock " + " Tack " = " Slot For Knob of Safety Chain " { " Base of Chain " () " Knob Part of Safety Chain --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Well, so far, most of what you have been reading has been things that I have picked up in a few scattered philes and people. Now I will begin the actual tutorial. This includes descriptions of all kinds of locks, most still being used today from the locks on your screen door, to the lock on your car. ---------- - PART 1 - BASIC RULES AND PRINCIPLES ---------- The main key in bypassing any lock, is to know how the lock works and its design. For example. Many banks use what is called a partition lock to lock a swinging door. --------------------- - - - === - - Knob --> = = - Partition Lock - === - - - -------------------- When an irate customer comes barging into the bank wanting attention NOW, they may go up to the lock, and begin jerking, pulling, whatever on the little brass knob expecting to open the gate. But nada happens.. This is because the know is a phoney.. It is there with only one purpose, to fool the customer. The real way to get in is to use your finger tips and push up on the false bottom. This opens the gate. So the "key" here was to know how the lock worked.. Get it? General Rule #1 - The Universal Key to any lock is knowledge. ------------------------------------------------------------ General Rule #2 - Don't become keyway oriented to the point of single- ---------------------------------------------------------------------- mindedness. ---------- This second rule deserves some explainnation. It generally translates to, take the easiest way in/through, which is not always the door lock.. For exaple, don't try picking a difficult door lock when you have a window that you can go through. Or don't begin to focus on picking the lock without atleast checking to make sure that the door is actualy LOCKED!! (Even experts have made that mistake.) Here are a few more rules... General Rule #3 - Know the locking mechanism perfectly. ------------------------------------------------------ General Rule #4 - Never give up on a practice lock opening. ---------------------------------------------------------- General Rule #5 - When all else fails, CHEAT! -------------------------------------------- General Rule #6 - Practice on the most difficult BLT and/or lock. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Again, this rules require some explaination. The first is easy. If you are trying to pick a lock that you think is a simple warded lock but is actually a two-level tumbler, you will get nowhere fast. So know the locking mechanism. (#4) If you are trying to open a practice lock, it is ok to take 5 minute break, but after that, get right back to it. If you stop now, you may never go back. (#5) This means that if you are totally stumped by a practice lock, it is perfectly ok to open the lock up and make sure it turns the way you think it does, etc. But after that, go right back to attempting to pick the lock. Lastly, it is real impressive to pop open a disk lock in under 10 seconds, but you'll never learn how to open a high security cylinder by opening disk locks. So if a lock gives ya major trouble, keep trying it until you get it.. ---------- - PART 2 - WARDED LOCKS ---------- Well, now that we have gone through the basic principles, let's take a look at the easiest type of lock. The Warded Lock. In warded locks the key, when inserted and turned, merely engages a locking bolt mounted in the case and slides it to the locked or unlocked position. In addition, the key may also lift or disengage a bolt retaining lever or spring; or ot may act on the bolt via an intermediary lever. ----------- ---- - - <-- enters keyway - - Warded Key - --------------------- - ------------------------------- - <-- Handle of key ^^^^^^^^ - - Were the patterns were cut ---- This type of lock offers the bare minimum in amount of security since almost any object resembling the key will open the lock. The next step up comes when a locksmith inserts teeth called wards into the keyway or the turning path of the keybit, the end of the key that is inserted into the lock. A simple example is to cut the keyway with a tooth extending halfway into the keyway to block access. The lockmaker then cuts notches in the key where the ward would block the path. Example: The Keyway: The Keybit: ----------- - - ------- - - ------- - ==- ----- - ==- ----- - - ------- - - ------- ---------- The keyway would ofcourse not This is the end of the keybit, be square. That is just for as if it were pointing at you. clarity sake. The pair of The space in the middle is "=" represetns the wards. how the keybit bypasses the They are in obstruction of the wards. It simply passes over keyway. them. These locks eventually involed many wards within the lock, resulting in large but very figurative keys. A locksmith would usually create teh lock first including all of its wards. Then take a key with a rough out- line of the wards in the lock already on it. He would then put the "blade" of the key in the center of a candle flame, coating it with soot. Then the key was inserted into the lock, turned, and removed. The markes where the wards were left tiny scratches which were then filed down. Since many people can do this simple method, security was nil. Eventually the famed "Skeleton Key" was created around this time for this type of lock which was usually an "L" shaped tool designed to bypass many different types of warded locks. You may/will find these types of locks on many 1910-1940 homes, chest, and other assorted apllication where security was either not highly required or known. Another simple security messure was to have a small peg at the end of the inside of a keyhole. Thus the pipe key, with its hallow end was made. I believe that some police handcuffs used to/still do use this method. Those stupid little locks you see on luggage etc. are usually of the warded type. The only problem these little suckers pose is that since their keyways are so small, it makes it difficult to find a pick to fit into the hole. Careful though, because these locks may also be lever tumblers which are quite different but look the same from tht outside. A look at the key can usually help you tell which is which.. Many padlocks are warded as well. But they are usually bottom of the line models. If the coer can be rotated by inserting a straight tool it is a warded lock; if not, it is a disc or pin tumbler. B L T Begin you BLT (Bypass Lock Technique) on warded locks. When trying to pick one of these locks, you are trying to 1)avoid all wards 2) contact and swing the bolt with enough strength without breaking the pick and getting you ROYALLY pissed off. You would be best to purchase a bunch or skeleton keys from a manufacturer for these locks.. They usually come in sets of 4- 6 and are your only alturnative to making you own skeleton keys with the soot method using blanks.. Remember to becareful if you decide to cut your own keys.. If you use the same key for different locks, you MIGHT end up putting too many wards into one key thus weakening the key and it could become very uneffective, especially when it breaks off in the lock. Now, when picking a lock, you must remember also the treatment to give a lockpick/skeleton key. DO NOT EVER use the slam-bang method like you would with your house key. Insert it slowly, feeling for obstructions until it bottoms, then turn it slowly and feel for the notch cut into the locking bolt that the key blade must contact. If you hit a solid resistance, that you have most likey hit a ward, if it is more springy thenyou have probably hit a bolt retaining spring which must also be lifted. Be sure to always carry the proper tools.. Otherwise, a simple warded lock on an old door may stop you dead in your tracks. Warded padlocks are very common and are the perfect learning and practicing tool for beginners. You should definatly buy ATLEAST one to practice with and possibly even to attempt the soot method with.. It is good to get more than one so that you can see what different brands of locks look like inside or how to pick another warded padlock once you have conquered another. To do this BLT, it is usually required that you pull on the shackle of the padlock to make a tension. If you are having problems, you might want to try varying the amount of tension you apply when trying to pick the lock. That just about covers warded locks and related BLT. You should begin practicing on these locks as soon as possible to help boost your ego of actually opening a lock and not to mention, a thief that gets stopped by a warded lock looks like a complete moron. 90% of this beginning lesson should be preparation, getting the right tools, and beginning to understand locks. The other 10% should be practice. This completes this section and your education of Basic Principles and Warded Locks. Look for: Part 3 - Disc Tumbler Locks Part 4 - How to Mount Practice Locks Part 5 - Lever Tumbler Locks ....in the next phile.. Introduction ------------ This is the second in a series of lockpicking philes put out from Sanctuary. The first, "An Introduction to Lockpicking" can be gotten from The Hellfire BBS if you missed it, as well as any other SANctuary phile that you might want. In this phile, we will cover parts 3, Disc Tumbler Locks, and 4, How to Mount Practice Locks, along with a few dos and don'ts thrown in. But starting off will be two lockpicking philes by The Ninja, Room Entry/ Lockpicking Techniques Parts I&II.. *************************************************************************** ** * * * The Ninja Warrior * * Presents: * * Room Entry/Lock Picking Techniques * * * *************************************************************************** ** THIS IS THE FIFTH OF THE NINJA009 SERIES. I HOPE YOU'VE ENJOYED THE FIRST FOUR BULLETINS AND I'M SURE YOU'LL ENJOY THIS ONE AS WELL... ***WARNING*** THERE IS A HEAVILY ENFORCED LAW ON BREAKING AND ENTRY. IF YOU GET CAUGHT FOR B&E, AND YOU ARE OVER 18, YOU WILL DEFINITELY GO TO * JAIL *... IF YOU ARE UNDER AGED...STILL DON'T DO IT, SOME TIMES THE STUFF YOU DO STAYS ON YOUR FUTURE RECORDS. BACKGROUND: ----------- NINJA'S WERE ABLE TO WALK THRU WALLS, ENTER AND LEAVE A ROOM WITHOUT A TRACE. THIS WAS ONE OF THE STEALTH SKILLS, THAT THE NINJA'S POSSESSED. THERE WERE RUMORS THAT NINJAS CAN VANISH INTO A WALL...WELL...THAT'S A LITTLE HOAX. YES WE ARE ABLE TO ENTER AND EXIT A ROOM WITHOUT A LARGE TRACE...IF YOU KNOW HOW JAPANESE HOUSES IN THE ANCIENT TIMES WERE BUILT, YOU CAN LOOK AT THE SUPPORT POSTS, THEY USUALLY HAVE GRAPPLING HOOK MARKS IF A NINJA HAD WALKED THRU THE ROOM TO KILL A PERSON OR SOMETHING. BUT ONE HAS TO LOOK VERY, VERY CAREFULLY. -------------- HOW TO DO ITS: -------------- WELL...I WON'T GET INTO ANY PHILOSOPHICAL BULLSHIT OR THE ANCIENT STUFF. I'LL GIVE YOU INFO ON THE STUFF YOU CAN PUT TO MODERN USE. HOW TO PICK FILE CABINET LOCKS: ------------------------------- IT'S QUITE SIMPLE TO PICK OPEN A FILE CABINET. MOST FILE CABINETS NOWADAYS HAVE A CHEAP DISK TUMBLING SYSTEM. IF THE DISK PATTERNS MATCH THE KEY SHAPE, PRESTO! IT'S OPEN. LET ME BRIEFLY EXPLAIN WHAT DISK TUMBLERS ARE... 80 I I I I I **** I I I ** * ****** * <----- KEY ************ * I I I I I **** ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ |--|--|--|--| EACH ONE OF THE THINGS THAT THE (^) ARROWS ARE POINTING TO ARE DISKS. ( SORRY FOR THE BAD ILLUSTRATIONS. ) IF THE KEY INSERTED THRU THE 5 DISKS, AND THE PATTERN OF THE DISKS MATCH, IT OPENS. SO TO MAKE A KEY THAT WORKS WITH MOST (ALL) CABINET LOCKS... GET A WIRE FAIRLY THICK, JUST THIS ENOUGH TO FIT THRU THE LOCKS. BEND IT IN THE FOLLOWING FASHION. +---- THE DISTANCE SHOULD EQUAL ----------/\/\/\- v FROM TOP OF THE DISTANCE /\ / THE HUMP TO ACROSS TWO ^ THE BOTTOM OF TOPS OR ^ ^ +------ THE HUMP BOTTOMS -----|--| WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR KEY, JUST INSERT IT ALL THE WAY IN. JERK IT UP AND DOWN AS FAST AS YOU CAN, AS YOU TURN THE KEY TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT, DEPENDING ON HOW THE LOCK OPENS. IF YOU GET THE HANG OF IT, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO OPEN ANY FILE CABINET LOCK IN A MATTER OF SECONDS. I USUALLY TAKE ABOUT 3 TO 5 SECONDS WITH MY KEY. OPENING LOCKED DOORS: --------------------- I CAN WRITE A WHOLE BOOK IN TEACHING HOW TO OPEN LOCKED DOORS. I'LL TELL YOU THE MOST BASIC WAY OF DOING IT. THIS TECHNIQUE HAS TO BE A DOOR WITH A GAP AS WIDE AS A WIDTH OF A BUTTER KNIFE. IF YOU HAVE A BUTTER KNIFE OR A BUTTER FLY KNIFE OR EQUIVALENT, HANDY, YOU CAN OPEN THESE KINDA DOORS AS THOUGH YOU HAVE THE KEY TO THEM. DOOR GAP | | | | |-| | |<---- THE SO CALLED "BOLT" OF THE DOOR. | | |-| | | | | | | BIRD'S EYE AND ENLARGED VIEW OF THIS |---------- THE KNIFE v I ----> SLIDE THE KNIFE THIS WAY FOR THIS PICTURE ____ I ______ |I _| |I/ | DOOR |/ | |___| ____| |_______ ^ |--------------- THE "BOLT" IF THE ROUND PART OF THE "BOLT" FACES YOU THEN WITH THE KNIFE, PUSH ON THE BOLT WITH THE BACK OF THE BLADE. AS YOU PUSH, SLIDE THE KNIFE TOWARDS THE SIDE OF THE DOOR. (SEE ILLUSTATION FOR CLARITY). YOU WILL SLOWLY MOVE IT. AND PRESTO! THE DOOR IS OPEN. THE TRICK IS TO SLIDE THE KNIFE AND PUSHING IT AT THE SAME TIME, AND HOLD ON TO THE DOOR KNOB. IF IT OPENS INWARDS, GET READY TO PUSH IT AS SOON AS THE KNIFE IS THRU THE "BOLT". FOR THE OTHER CASE ( THE ROUND PART OF THE "BOLT" FACING AWAY FROM YOU ), YOU JUST PULL ON THE KNIFE AND GIVE THE SAME SLIDING MOTION. BE CAREFUL NOT TO STAB YOURSELF. THE KNIFE'S CONTACT POINT IS ALWAYS THE BACK OF THE KNIFE. *************************************************************************** * * * * * * * The Ninja Warrior * * * * Presents: * * * Room Entry/Lock Picking Techniques Part II * * * * * * * *************************************************************************** THIS IS THE SIXTH OF THE NINJA009 SERIES. THIS IS A CONTINUATION OF THE FIFTH OF THE SERIES. THIS WILL BE THE LAST PART OF THE LOCK PICKING TECKNIQUES. ***WARNING*** THERE IS A HEAVILY ENFORCED LAW ON BREAKING AND ENTRY. IF YOU GET CAUGHT FOR B&E, AND YOU ARE OVER 18, YOU WILL DEFINITELY GO TO * JAIL *... IF YOU ARE UNDER AGED...STILL DON'T DO IT, SOME TIMES THE STUFF YOU DO STAYS ON YOUR FUTURE RECORDS. -------------- HOW TO DO ITS: -------------- HOW TO PICK 5 PIN CIRCULAR TUMBLER LOCKS: ----------------------------------------- THIS IS VERY HARD...IT TAKES A LOT OF PRACTICE TO CRACK OPEN THESE KINDS OF LOCKS. MOST BIKE LOCKS AND ARCADE COIN SLOT LOCKS HAVE THIS TYPE OF LOCK. LET ME BRIEFLY EXPLAIN WHAT 5 PIN CIRCULAR TUMBLERS ARE... BIRD'S EYE VIEW _________ ___ --=_________ / o \ |- ===) /o o\ |- ==) \_o_o_/ |- ===)________ | --=_________ | +--- THE PINS (NOT ALL FIVE CAN BE SHOWN) THE KEY IS A SMALL CIRCULAR TUBE LIKE KEY WITH A LITTLE NOTCH AT THE END OF THE KEY, WITH FIVE SMALL DITCHES IN THE TUBE. WHEN ALL THE PINS ARE ARRANGED SO THAT THE LOCK TURNS, PRESTO!!! SOME HAVE SEVEN PINS.... SO TO MAKE A KEY THAT WORKS WITH 5 PIN BIKE LOCKS AND ET. AL. MAKING THE KEY IS VERY HARD...YOU HAVE TO MAKE A KEY, EVERYTIME YOU USE IT, ONCE! THIS IS A BITCH. THE PARTS AREN'T THE EASIEST TO FIND EITHER. FIND 5 SPRING STEEL NEEDLES THICK ENOUGH FOR STRENGTH, BUT THIN ENOUGH TO FIT INTO THE SIDES OF THE LOCKS. GET A TUBE THAT FITS THE LOCK PERFECTLY. YOU CAN KEEP THE TUBE FOREVER. TAPE THE SPRING STEEL NEEDLES ONTO THE PIPE. LET THE SPRINGS STICK OUT ABOUT 5 mm OUT OF THE PIPE. BUT MAKE SURE NONE OF THE SPRINGS ARE LAYED OUT EVENLY. NOW, INSERT IT INTO THE LOCK. GIVE IT A RAPID IN AND OUT MOTION. GET A SURGICAL SPRING NEEDLE FROM YOUR BIOLOGY LABORATORY AND USE THAT TO ROTATE THE LOCK AS YOU JIGGLE IT IN AND OUT. I HAD A HELL OF A HARD TIME PICKING OPEN A KRYPTONITE LOCK. I LOST MY KEYS TO MY BIKE AND IT WAS LOCKED TO A POLE. IT TOOK ME ABOUT 20 MINUTES. I HAD SUCCESSFULLY OPENED ONLY 5 OF THESE TYPES OF LOCKS, ONE OF THEM BEING A SEVEN PIN. IT IS VERY FRUSTRATING AND HARD. BUT WORK ON IT. OPENING CAR DOOR TYPE 1: ------------------------ I CAN WRITE A WHOLE BOOK IN TEACHING HOW TO OPEN CAR DOORS. I'LL TELL YOU THE TWO BASIC WAYS OF DOING IT. THE FIRST TECHNIQUE IS THE FOLLOWING: A CAR WITH A LIPPED DOOR LOCK: ___ ( ) ----- DOOR LOCK | | ________| |___________ _ THESE DOORS ARE SO EASY TO PICK, IT TAKES A PRO ONLY ABOUT A SECOND TO OPEN IT. JUST GET A HANGER AND TAKE IT APART TO BE A SO CALLED STRAIGHT WIRE. BEND IT LIKE THE FOLLOWING. _________________________ ______ ( L ) L = LENGTH (ABOUT 1-1/2 INCHES) THE LOOP PART OF THE HOOK SHOULD BE JUST BIG ENOUGH TO GRAB THE LOCK. JUST STICK IT IN THRU THE SIDE OF THE WINDOW. AS YOU INSERT IT, BEND IT TOWARDS THE LOCK. IF THE GAP OF BETWEEN THE DOOR AND THE WINDOW IS TOO SMALL, THEN USE THE SECOND TECHNIQUE. AS YOU APPROACH THE LOCK AND GET A HOLD OF IT, MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A SNUG GRIP ON THE LOCK BY TUGGING ON IT ONCE AND PULL IT IN AN UPWARD MOTION, FAST. PRESTO!!! IT'S OPEN. THIS IS VERY EASY. JUST PRACTICE ON YOUR OWN CAR OR SOMETHING, IF YOU GET A CHANCE, PRACTICE IN A SAFE LOOKING PARKING LOTS, (METRO, OR PRIVATE LOTS.) AND YOU'LL GET THE HANG OF IT. OPENING CAR DOOR TYPE 2: ------------------------ THIS ISN'T THAT HARD EITHER ONCE YOU GET THE HANG OF IT. YOU HAVE TO GET: A METAL RULER ABOUT AN INCH IN WIDTH AND AT LEAST 2 FOOT IN LENGTH. CUT THE METAL NOTCH IN THE FOLLOWING FASHION. | | | | |_ | \ | \ | \ | / | __/ / | / | \_ | | | | |_______| DO IT ACCORDING TO THE HARDCOPY'S SCALE FOR THE CUTS OF NOTCHES. IT IS AS CLOSE TO MINES AS POSSIBLE. THEN INSERT THE STICK INTO THE SIDE OF THE DOOR. FEEL FOR A PIN INSIDE THE CAR DOOR. ONCE YOU FIND THE PIN, PUSH SLIGHTLY DOWN ON IT AND THE PULL UP FAST. BINGO! IT'S OPEN. THIS NEEDS MORE PRACTICE THAN THE OTHER METHOD BUT IT'S NOT THAT HARD. PRACTICE MAKES PERFECTION...SO PRACTICE HARD. I'LL WRITE SOME MORE LOCK PICKING SCHEMES IN THE FUTURE. WELL...HAVE FUN. WRITTEN BY: THE NINJA WARRIOR ANY QUESTIONS REGARDING THIS OR THE PREVIOUS SERIES, LEAVE E-MAIL TO: THE NINJA MORE TO COME IN THE FUTURE..... LOOK FORWARD TO IT.... PRACTICE WHAT YOU'VE LEARNED.... This is one of MANY Great MYSTERY Notes at: The Mystery Zone Following will be parts 3-4 of my own phile. ---------- - PART 3 - Disc Tumbler Locks ---------- To start off, a tumbler lock is any part of the lock that is directly moved by the key and also has an unlocking function. So, the tumbler in the lock we are about to discuss is a lot like a disk, with a small rectangular looking slot cut into....about the center. _____ _| |_____ | ____| <--- Spring Finger | _ | | | | | | | |<------------ Key Slot | | | | | |_| | (This is BASICALLY what one | | looks like. Only the edges |_ _| and corners are slightly more |____| rounded.) Figure 1: An individual disc tumbler The trick is that the position of the slot can be varied, depending where the maker wants to put the key slot. It can be up slightly, further down slightly, (there are set increments, but there is no REAL reason to discuss them) but the dimentions of the slot itself never change. Now imagine that you take 5 of these disks (approx. nickel sized) and thread them onto a typical disc-tumbler key. (The key looks like your normal, average house key, only smaller. Keys to outer screen doors arean example.) Make sure that the disk you are imagining, are resting in the absolute bottom of the "V" cut on your key. (You can do this, if you like, with 5 pieces of cardboard to help you understand the concept.) _________ | |__ | | | | /\|/\ | | | () \ | /\|/ | \|/\|/\ | \|/ | | | | \ | __|___|___|___|__|__/ |____________| | | | | |<------ Cardboard Disks (HEY! It ain't that easy drawing a key in text so give me a break ok??) Figure 2: Cardboard practice tumblers threaded onto key cuts. So you can see that the disks are all the same height. This is how it should be with the varied key slots through the cardboard to adjust to the different depths of the "V" cuts. The following is the plug shown in side view. __ | | | |________________________________ | | _ _ _ _ _ | | | | |0| | | |0| | | |0< ------------ Spring Hole | | | | | | | | | | | | | | ------------------------------------ <---- Key Way | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |_| |0| |_| |0| |_| < ---------- Slot | |_____________________________|__| | | |__| Figure 3: View of Disk Lock Plug. The slots in the plug hold the tumblers in place parallel to each other but allow each tumbler to move individualy. The disks protrude outward from the slots with a constant outward pressure being exerted upon the disk by little springs under the spring finger of each tumbler. Now look at a diagram of a disk cylinder. This is what the plug mentioned and shown above slides into. ____________ / \ / ___ \ / | | \ / / \ \ | / \ | | \ / | \ \ / / \ |___| / \ / \ ___________ / Figure 4: Cylinder front view. Notice the 2 grooves that are 180 degrees apart. When the plug is inserted, the disks coming out of the plug are lined up with these grooves. This is what holds the plug from turning thus releasing the lock. Once a correct "key" is found that will turn the mechinism inside the plug, the disk tumblers will slide down into the plug, then allowing the plug to turn within the cylinder, thus opening your neighbor's...er....your door... The trick is to get all the tumblers at their varied hights, lined up so that they will all go into the plug and not impeade rotation. So if you had a disk tumbler lock that was loaded with all #3 depth disks, and a key with all #3 height "V" cuts, all the disk would go into the plug and you would be able to open the lock. Unfortuanly, such simple designs are never found, otherwise a straight wire could open the lock. So the lockmakers make it so all of the disk are at different depths, making it that much harder to align all of the disks at the same time. Rememeber, even 1 protruding disk will keep the lock locked. Something to remember is that some locks have as many as 10 disks, while 5 are the most common, 6 and 7 disk tumbler locks are not too unusual. Another type of disc tumbler lock is one that has two independent banks of tumblers that are 180 degrees apart. They fairly normal when you see them through the keyway,but they are really different because they move independently. They do tend to look like a staircase in the keyway. The way to tell for sure is by using a feeler or straight pick. Begin to manipulate one side. If both sides then move, you know that you are dealing with the normal variety. But if only one side moves, not both, you know you are dealing with independent banks of disk tumblers. Most if not all disk tumbler locks have what is called a plug retainer. This keeps the plug from being taken out end-wise from the cylinder. They range from cams screwed in at the far end, to snap rings, to being welded together at the factory. The most common is a disc retainer. This is simply an extra disk added to the end of the plug that does not move when the key is used. Some locks have a small hole in the lock face that can be used to defeat the disk retainer when th elock is unlocked. By using a cylinder retainer shim tool (Figure 5) you can push the disk retainer into the plug and remove the plug from the cylinder. | | |__________________________ | / |------------------------/ | | (The slant on the end is usually more steep.) Figure 5: Cylinder Shim Tool Since most plugs have a "shoulder" on them that prevents someone from pushing them into the cylinder, they can not be accessed that way either. Where Are They? -------------- Here are some common applications for disc tumbler locks. Can be found Cannot be found ------------ --------------- showcase locks padlocks telephone dial locks exterior/interior passage lock office machines other high usage applications cash registers bathroom towel dispensors gas tank covers switch locks other low-security applications sidebar locks in cars (to be covered in another section) glove compartments Basic Appearance ---------------- Most of the disk tumbler keys look like your house key (pin tumbler lock) but are a little smaller, about 1/4 or an inch shorter. Picking ------- Okay, you've had alot of backround shit throw at you, now let's put it to work and try to pick some locks. I recommend maybe trying your own locks around the house if you have any. In part 4, I'll tell you all the stuff you'll need to get started on mounting some prctice locks if you choose to do so. Once you have found a lock to try, or have mounted a practice lock in wood and put it in a vise, get a tension wrench (Figure 6). Insert the tension wrench into the lock making sure that you don't block the keyway cause the raking tool in going in next (Figure 7). __ | | | | | | ___________________________________________| | | __________________________________________| | | |_ _| | | | | Figure 6: Tension Wrench | | /\ |_______________________________/ \ | \ |------------------------------------\ | | Figure 7: Diamond pick used for raking technique If you have a problem finding a clear place to insert the tension wrench into, look for a shallow slot at the top or the bottom of the lock and put the wrench there. This is where the key usually bottoms so that you can't insert the key into the lock too far. It is a good place to put the wrench but remember not to apply to much tension. __________ |//////////| |////////<----- Tumbler coming down from the top. |----------| | | | | | | |__________| |\\\\\\\\\\| |\\\\\\\\<----- Shallow slot. |----------| Figure 8: Keyway view of disc tumblers After you insert the tension wrench into the lock, apply a little turning pressure in the direction that the lock nomally turns in. Do this until the disk bind, or cause resistance. Now insert the rake into the lock under all of the tumblers. (Note: Some locks have no backing so be careful not to stick the pick into the space behind the tumblers.) Now, check to see if the rake moves smoothly in and out, touching all of the tumblers. If not, the rake may be too high. Grip is also a factor. Your best bet would be to hold the pick like a pencil, and let it pivot at the point where the fingers grab it. If this is not comfortable, try holding in a way that is better for you. Tension is just as important. Remember to apply CONSTANT tension, but not too little, or too much. This you will just have to determine mostly with practice. Too much tension prevents the tumblers from moving, while to little gets you just as far. So, to recap, sum up, whatever. Apply a light, constant turning tension with the wrench, hold the pick right, putting it under all of the tumblers. Now move the rake in and out in a scrubbing motion, being sure to contact all of the tumblers on each pass, in both directions, letting the pick pivot. If you are having trouble with the first method, here are some things you can try. Try varing the tension, but don't let off totally. Sometimes, when you ease tension while doing a stroke, the lock pops open. Remeber, too much tension can also cause your pick to bend instead of scrub, so unless you like spending money on new picks, go easy. Also, sometimes a figure eight motion works good. To try this, keep the wrist loose, and let your fingers move the pick. One last technique you could try would be the "ripping" technique. This is when you carefully insert the pick into the lock without touching any tumblers, and then ripping it out in one very fasy stroke. If you have opened the lock, CONGRATS! Do it again..and again..and again.. If not, make sure you are trying to turn the lock in the right direction. You can also check the key profile. If the key is fairly straight, with few deep "v" cuts, it is easier to open than a lock that has a key with deep "v" cuts (Figure 9). ___________ | |_ | |_ _ _ _ | |____ / \ / \ / \ _ | \___/ \__/ \__/ \__/ \_ <--- Harder | () \ | ____________________________/ | ____/ | _| | _| |___________| ___________ | |_ | |_ | |____ _ _ _ _ | () \___/ \___/ \___/ \___/ \_ <--- Easier | \ | _________________________/ | ____/ | _| | _| |___________| Figure 9: Two sample key profiles Now that you've picked a disc tumbler lock (hopefully), start to notice how common these locks are. And most if not all can be picked by the same type of raking technique. After time, you'll catch on to the tensino mystery and be able to open any disc tumbler lock. The reason they are so easy to open is because they are factory made. So, since they are off of an assembly line, they have a lot of play in them. So is it wrong for us to point out the lack of quality in today's locks by picking them? Well, maybe, but who gives a shit. ---------- - PART 4 - Practice Locks and Some Dos and Don'ts ---------- Now that you are a practicing thief, whoops..heheh. I meant locksmith, you will need lock to practice on. I suggest getting the following types of locks: 1. Disc Tumbler Lock 2. Rim or Mortise Pin Tumbler 3. Lever Tumbler 4. Warded Mortise 5. Warded Padlock Try to get fairly cheap ones because cheaper usually means easier to pick. You should be able to pick most up at a local store, except maybe the warded mortise lock in which case you may want to go to some second- hand store, chances are you'll get it cheaper there anyhow. What you basically want to do, is mount the lock into a piece of wood as you would mount it into a door. Then clamp the wood in a vise. Or you could make a sort of cabinet with all the locks in one place and mount the cabinet on you wall where you can practice. Either way is fine. Just make sure you have SOME PLACE to practice. A little hint is to put the mounted lock(s), if possible, in a place where you walk often. That way you can practice every time you walk by or atleast you won't totally forget to practice a little. Remeber to practice alot on the pin tumblers once you know how to pick them (in next phile) because they are the most common. Also, don't forget that when you are picking to sometimes practice with a flashlight because when you are out in the "field", the owner of the house will most likely not be there holding a flashlight for you. Try holding the flashlight in your mouth or even taping it to your arm. If you want, you can also try velcro. Two fifteen minute practice sessions a day should get you well on your way. If you have looked in catalogs for lockpicks, I'm sure you have seen those "all in one" types. Where you get 8 picks inside a pen or something. Well, take a little advice and DO NOT buy one of these. Why? Simple. When you are lockpicking, you will often need to change the type of pick you are using. So if you need two hands to unscrew the old pick, and put on a new one, whixh hand is holding the tension wrench? None. So you lose tension and have to start all over again. Gee, isn't that fun. I would suggest buying one of those leather case tools. They may be more expensive, but they are worth it. Not to mention, the companies that make those "pen picks" seem to enjoy giving us 8 picks with 5 of them being of a type you will never use in YOUR lifetime. So stick to the kits that come in cases. These are generally better quality and easier to access cause you can just drape an open case across your knee when picking. Let's just go over the basic things to do when attempting to gain entry. First, make sure of the simple things. Like making sure the door, as well as windows and such are ACTUALLY locked. Also make sure that the door is not jammed. Check the lock also. If the lock is old and worn and requires manipulation when using the right key, do you think that you are going to be able to PICK it open. Probably not. Next, figure out what type of lock it is. A stamped metal plate with a keyway cut into it is usually a warded lock, or a lever tumbler lock (lever tumblers will be in the next phile.) The circulaer shaped locks, like the ones on the door to your house, are usually pin tumbler, disc tumbler, or wafer tumbler locks (Schlage). On padlocks especially, if the core rotates, this could mean a warded lock. It is a lever tumbler lock if the rotating core has a slot cut in the side of it's retainer. If the core doesn't move, it is a pin tumbler. | | |_________________________________ |_____________________________ / | | / | |/ | Figure 10: Broken key extractor. Next, check the keyway for foreign objects. A little trick some burglers use is to put broken toothpicks in the key way. This slows down a homeowner who could surprise an unalert burgler. Also, make sure that you can see the tumblers. If not, they could be jammed up inside the cylinder. Something else that you may sometimes notice is that there are very few tumblers. This is because some shity locksmith put in only a few tumblers, this making the lock easier to pick. Also, make sure you know what type of lock it is. It may not be what you think. Also, check for a brand name if visable. Certain brands like, CORBIN or RUSSWIN use or have installed slightly different parts making the lock a little harded to pick, sometimes (i.e. mushroom pins) Next, insert the tension wrench into the plug and try to ratate it. The more it rotates, the more play is in the lock, meaning it's easier to pick. While you are doing this, try to figure out which way the plug turns. This is VERY important. If you apply tension in the wrong direction whiel picking a lock, you will never open it. You can tell the difference by the way the plug stops. If you feel an abrupt, solid stop, that is the WRONG way. If you feel a slow increase in friction to a stop, that is usually the way to turn it. Cleaning the lock is also very important. Well, not VERY important, but it is good to know. A hint if the lock is in bad condidtion is if you smell some kind of lubricant. Chancea are that the lock is not in godd shape and the owner tried to get it to work better by shooting some WD-40 into it, which by the way is bad for locks cause it leaves a residue. Use lighter fluid to clean a lock. Gasoline and LPS-1 are also BAD to use cause of the residue left after evaporation. WARNING: Cleaning the lock with lighter fluid or naptha (another cleaning agent) leaves a smell. This will be left behind after you have gone for the homeowner or whomever to smell and shows that someone was fideling with the lock. Flush clean twice, using a straight tool to work the tumblers betwwen each washing. Then blow dry. You could try those gases in a can from cetain chemical supply house also to blow the lock dry. The purpose is to float away any dirt when cleaning and drying the lock. Now that the lock is clean, if it wasn't already you are ready to pick it. Some people like lubricant in a lock, other don't. It is your choice, but if you do, a short squirt of powdered graphite is you best bet to use. Also remeber to look under flower pots, rocks, etc for keys before attempting to open a lock. Just think where you might hide something, and look there. Try to get into the routine of surveying the lock in the ways just described. If you get in a habit of it, you may not overlook something obvious when it happens. It will also help you in general to open locks. Well, that's it for my second phile on lockpicking. In the next lockpicking phile, look for articles on: Lever Tumbler locks & Pin Tumbler Locks. So until then, happy trails, and remeber not to get the foreskin caught in the zipper. ------------------============<HELLFIRE BBS!!!>===========----------------- Sanctuary WORLD HQ!!! (908) xxx-xxxx Greets to THG,INC,NEUA, Hey PE...where's the wares??? Look foward to many more Great P/H/C Docs from SANctuary!!! Remember, SANctuary is ALWAYS looking foe new writers, courriers, dst. sites and possibly even members! If you would like to be any of these Leave Me or Havok Halcyon e-mail at HELLFIRE, or write to: Sanctuary Po Box 286 Keansburg, NJ 07734 Introduction ------------ Within this brand new, (or real old phile, depending on when you get/read it) we're gonna discuss part 5, Lever Tumbler Locks. Part 6, which will involve Pin Tumbler Locks, like the locks used in car doors, was supposed to be here, but was pushed back slightly due to schedule changes. It WILL be in the next phile of the series however.. Since I won't be compiling any other works into this chapter, it will be a bit smaller than the previous philes, but hopefully just as good. If you missed the first two, they can be had from Hellfire, as well as any other SANctuary philes. We'll start off with a little introduction to Lever Locks... A word of warning. If you haven't read the first two philes, I would recommend you reading them before this one, or at least reading them sometime in the near future. I have written these philes in a way so that people who have already read my older philes, do not have to deal with re-reading things they already know. ---------- - PART 5 - Lever Tumbler Locks ---------- The next type of lock we will be covering in this series is going to be the lever lock. Even though it is not seen too often, we wouldn't want you to be dumbfounded the few times you do run into it. Technically, this was the next lock developed after the warded lock, it was in fact made to replace the warded lock, so you can assume that they are fairly alike. Uses ---- A place where you WILL see this lock would be safety deposit boxes. But, since it is incredibly hard to pick when it is being used as a lock on a safety deposit box, most locksmith's use a "nose puller" to open the lock. This involves screwing a sheet metal screw into the key way of the box and pulling the door off the box. Some places where you will also find lever locks would be older office equipment, chests, cabinets, luggage locks, etc. Some early mortise locks are lever locks also. Keyway ------ Lever locks have a unique look to them. They are a slot cut into the face of a metal cylinder with a matching slot on the collar or the lock cylinder. --------- - - - - - [] [] <--- sometimes additional slots are cut - [] - in the collar - [] <--- Keyway ----[]--- Figure 1: Lever Lock Keyway View This cylinder or barrel or thimble or nose rises above the mounting surface, usually. It is unusual in the way that the face is free to rotate even when the key is not inserted. The key, once inside the cylinder, usually moves the boltwork directly, just like warded locks. The Keys -------- The keys that are used to open these locks are often called flat keys. Why? Because that is exactly what they are. They are flat stamped keys with no side warding cuts whatsoever. The one cut they have, called the throat cut, is near the bow of the key. The key has varying rectangular depths near the tip that move the retainers to their varied height in the lock. Time for Operation ------------------ As stated before, lever locks are much like disc tumbler locks. So, as in disc locks, the disc is the varying heights mechanisms while in lever locks it is the lever mechanism. Here the lever is moved to varying heights against a spring by a key, and then the bolt stump is free to be pushed through the aligned slots in the interior of levers from one cutout area to another. In a lever lock, the key engages the bolt just as it would disks in disc lock. But in a lever lock, the key elevates the tumblers by rotation not my being shoved into a lock like a disc tumbler (figures 2 &3). __ | |__ | |__ _______________| | ________________________| Figure 2: Key Blade (end of key) of a Lever Lock Key __________________________________ | | | __________ |<---(as you turn key, this entire lever |___________| + |___________| moves up.) Figure 3: Lever in a lever lock. Notice the shape of the key end. By the way, with this type of lock, the key end will always consist of rectangular cuts and no wedge profiles. You would insert the key into the lock on its side so that it lies flat. The small area marked with a plus (figure 3. The plus means nothing, it is only a marker.) is where the key would be inserted into. (The lever, figure 3, is inside the lock.) As you turn the key, you would lift up the lever bar just as you would be lifting up a disk. The cylinder itself holds the key at the proper height in relationship to the levers and rotates the key on an axis. The tumblers will come in stacks of two, three, all the way up to fifteen. Each tumbler having a common pivot point and an individual spring. So when the key reaches is TDC (top dead center) it lifts each tumbler to its correct height based on the levels and depths of each key bitting as well as the levels of the gates (the area cutout on the bottom of the lever). If you have been following closely, you should be able to realize that this type of lock is much the same as a disc but uses retangular cuts and levers instead of wedge cuts and discs. One small note to remember is that all lever locks of simple design are dead locks. For picking a lever lock, a new type of technique is used, individually lifting each tumbler to its proper height. The tension wrenches for these locks are different from the ones used to pick disk tumbler locks, (figure 4) and have slight size differences. In lever locks that are most common use that type of tension wrench. ______________________________ | | A | |____ Figure 4: Lever Lock Tension Wrench The part of the wrench marked "A" is the part that changes. It's length may differ from wrench to wrench depending upon the lock it is meant to pick. The "A" dimension is the correct size if the wrench corresponds to the length of the key from cylinder cut to tip. If the "A" dimension is any longer than that, you will not get proper pick manipulation. You can usually buy a set somehow which generally will have four or five different sizes. You CAN try making your own, but I don't recommend it. If you absolutely must make your own, try bending one from .040 music wire and then grinding each side flat. As for lifters, your normal set that works disc and pin tumblers will also work for levers. The basic idea behind lever tumbler picking is to apply unlocking tension on the bolt, which makes the stump bear against the inner edge of the locked position cutout. After you have tension, a lockpicker will use a lifter pick to raise each individual gate until it is lined up with the stump. The one to begin picking with is the gate in the back of the lock. When the gate and stump and gate align, the stump and gate will make contact, and the gate will catch on the stump. As long as tension is not released, the tumbler will be held in an unlocked position, even if the lifting pressure is removed. The feel of the two contacting should be quite noticeable, you might even hear it. You might also notice the tension wrench jump slightly when this occurs. You could feel a little lessening of resistance, which will come back right away if you over lift. WARNING: do not over lift any tumbler, because this will mean that you will have to start over. This is a very common, and pain in the butt mistake. Some locks even have a little thing inside of them that detects over lifting, and will permanently lock the lock if triggered. After you have lifted the first tumbler, the one furthest back, proceed to the next one, going from back to front. You may notice a slight lessening in tension here, or may not. The feel of the tumblers entering their gates will feel less and less as you go. After all the tumblers are lined up, the bolt moves, unlocking the lock. Here is something that you should watch out for. In some locks, they make the cuts in the tumblers at extreme degrees. Meaning that in one tumbler they will cut it as deep as possible, while in the next, they will cut it as shallow as possible. This, by the way, is not possible with disk or pin tumbler locks. This is very good security because it becomes very difficult to lift one tumbler high enough without touching or causing misalignment with the other tumbler. So, one thing to expect with some lever tumbler locks is a high-low-high-low-high etc. combination on good locks. Another thing is to always remember that over lifting is fatal. The only way to get the over-lifted tumbler back down is to release tension, which will probably cause all other tumblers to drop as well. Also, if a tumbler drops down right after you finish lifting it, go immediately back to it. And don't forget to go from back to front, since they usually bind strongest in back, getting weaker as you get closer to the front. In a closing note for lever locks, let me just add that often you will come to what appears to be a small lever lock which is in actuality, merely a warded lock with a spring retainer that must be lifted before the bolt can be moved. Now while the amount of lifting you do to a retainer is not critical, for a lever lock it would be. ---------- ---------- This concludes the chapter on lever locks. If you are somewhat unclear, don't worry 'cause chances are low that you will see a lever lock. This section was added so that you can have a complete working knowledge of lockpicking if you are ever called upon to use it.